As darkness spreads like a soft blanket across the sky, I step out of Helsinki Central Station and take a deep breath of what has been described as the cleanest air in Europe.
The February chill pricks my cheeks as I admire the elegant streets of the Finnish capital, a city of seasonal restaurants, world-class saunas and art nouveau architecture. There is much to smile about; after all, Finland has been voted the happiest place on Earth seven years in a row.
As a mobility-conscious travel writer, I’ve come to evaluate how this Scandi capital accommodates visitors with accessibility needs. Finland’s status as a beacon of progressive values has been called into question over the past year by its ruling rightwing coalition. Long hospital waits, soaring food prices and rising homelessness are only some of the issues facing Finnish society, just like much of Europe.
But Finland remains streets ahead when it comes to disability inclusion, with the country long touted as a world leader in accessible public spaces — a reputation I was here to examine firsthand.
And I found that Helsinki defies expectations. Part Nordic cool, part artistic haven, this is a city that reveals itself slowly and lingers in your mind, long after you leave.
Getting around Helsinki
Since losing the use of my leg following an illness in 1993, I have worn a full leg brace and walk with crutches.
Helsinki is a mostly flat, pedestrian-friendly city; almost all of the most popular attractions are within walking distance of the city’s top hotels.
But if you feel the need, the tram network is also an excellent and affordable way to explore; unlimited hop-on-hop-off passes cost €10 for 24 hours, or €15 for 48 hours.
Trams are accessible and free to wheelchair users. It is enshrined in Finnish law that disabled people should not be discriminated against because of their disability, so drop pavements and accessible entry points are catered for at the vast majority of shops, hotels and tourist sites.
Any public transport (taxi, tram and train) I made use of was easily accessible for me, but also for anyone with more challenging disabilities.
How to get to Helsinki
Many airlines run daily flights from London to Helsinki.
Low-cost Ryanair offers return fares from €131, while Norwegian Air starts from €187. KLM flies out of Manchester with return fares starting from €208, and Finn Air flies from Heathrow from £285.
Where to stay in Helsinki
I’m staying at Sokos Solo Pier 4, a new hotel in the trendy Katajanokka district surrounded by the cobbled Market Square, the imposing Suomenlinna fortress and a smorgasbord of palaces and grandiose cathedrals.
Solo Sokos Pier 4 is new and was designed with accessibility in mind, with eight accessible and adapted rooms plus a fully accessible entrance for wheelchair users. The dining room, roof terrace, lifts and lobby are also accessible, but the hotel’s sauna is not.
Outside on Market Square, the cobbles are certainly a challenge for wheels, but you can navigate around this thanks to pavements on either side of the square.
Just a few minutes walk to downtown Helsinki, this neighbourhood has an island-like feel and has long been the haunt of Finnish luminaries, including Tove Jansson, creator of the beloved Moomins.
Although Finland has a reputation for being expensive, prices are now mostly aligned with what we pay in the UK. Hotels vary depending on quality. My lodgings at the four-star Sokos Solo Pier 4 Hotel start from €148 per night, while standard rooms at the top-rated five-star Hotel Kamp go from €290 a night.
Value can still be found in the Finnish capital, at places like the three-star Omena Hotel Lonnrotinkanu which offers comfortable doubles from €69 per night.
A coffee is a competitive €3 to €4 (cheaper than the UK!) whilst a beer will set you back slightly more, at around €8. Expect to pay somewhere between €40 and €60 for a mid-range evening meal.
Where to eat and drink in Helsinki
Eager to sample local cuisine, I headed for Toppa, a restaurant in a building designed by the prolific architect Alvar Aalto.
The menu brilliantly blends street food with fine-dining. Dishes like grilled octopus with sweet peppers (€16), Mapo Szechuan tofu (€16) and a sharing dish of Char Sieu pork (€42) caused my dinner companions to sigh with contentment.
The terrace captures stunning views of the city skyline,best enjoyed with one of their signature cocktails. It is worth noting that Toppa has received mixed reviews online (3.9 on Google and just 3 stars on Trip Advisor). While some praise its innovative menu, others mention poor service and tiny portion sizes. I can only say that my experience was overwhelmingly positive.
A more intimate setting is Wellamo, a cosy Nordic-themed restaurant on the edge of the upscale Katajanokka neighbourhood.
Menus vary throughout the year to reflect seasonal ingredients. When I visited, four courses came in at €58 while six courses were €68. Highlights were the reindeer steak and burbot with Jerusalem artichoke.
The Happiness Factor
Finland has been named the happiest country in the world seven years running, and my interactions with locals made it easy to see why.
Such heights of contentment could stem from their national love of sauna, an integral part of Finnish culture. A Finn I shared a session with explained why he makes time for a sauna every morning before work.
‘It gets my blood flowing, opens your heart!’ he laughed as he poured water on the coals.
The country’s sauna obsession is real: there are an estimated three million saunas for just five and a half million Finns. That’s nearly half a sauna per person.
At Allas Sea Pool in the heart of Helsinki, I experienced this cultural cornerstone firsthand. For €18, you get two hours of pure relaxation, alternating between a warm sauna overlooking the Suomenlinna islands and a 27° outdoor pool.
The ultimate challenge is a near-freezing plunge pool that you immerse yourself in after a sweat session. Skin tingling, I emerged invigorated and with a better understanding of Finnish addiction to the sauna ritual.
Changing and washing facilities are wheelchair accessible, however the heated and cold pools and lower saunas are not. Wheelchair users would struggle with these aspects. Every sauna in Helsinki has different facilities, so it is important to speak with them ahead of your visit to ensure your needs can be met.
As with many things, Scandinavia was ahead of the curve with wellness.
Therma-tourism – the name for heat-seeking travelling – is on the rise and has been proven to have significant health benefits. From sweltering hot springs to luxurious hammams, heat opens the blood vessels and reduces stress, while cold plunges like the one I tried in Finland boost the immune system and trigger the release of feel-good hormones. It’s easy to understand why its popularity is increasing.
Things to do in Helsinki
Tueratastamo offers a fascinating glimpse into Helsinki’s urban culture.
This former abattoir has been transformed into a vibrant centre of food, art, and music. Despite its industrial past, the complex is now home to food markets from around the world, art galleries, coffee roasteries and live music venues. Its bohemian atmosphere rivals that of larger European capitals like Madrid and Prague.
The nearby Kallio district, originally a working-class area of small apartments, today attracts an eclectic mix of students and artists. Bars such as Musta Kissa and Bar Molotow keep the neighbourhood alive with live music and entertainment well into the early hours.
Within a few hundred yards of Rautatientori Square, five remarkable galleries await. The Ateneum, particularly close to Finnish hearts, displays works from Paul Cezanne to Edvard Munch. Nearby, the Helsinki Art Museum (HAM) houses over 10,000 artworks.
Two contrasting cathedrals define the city’s skyline: the pristine Lutheran Helsinki Cathedral dominates Senate Square with its brilliant white façade and imposing green dome. In stark contrast, the crimson-bricked Orthodox Uspenski Cathedral sits atop a solid rock base, its gleaming gold onion domes mushrooming into the sky.
Is Helsinki safe?
Helsinki, and Finland in general, is exceptionally safe. Ranked the 11th safest country in the world (compared to the UK at 37th and the US at 131st), Helsinki invites fearless exploration.
While the streets can feel deserted in the winter, common sense is all that’s required.
48 hours in Helsinki: Metro’s itinerary
Day 1
Wander the Market Square and delve into history at Helsinki Cathedral, Senate Square and Uspenski Cathedral
Eat lunch at Vanha Kauppahalli – the 19th-century Old Market Hall.
Take the weight off your feet and relax and refresh in Allas Sea Pool and Sauna.
Enjoy a stylish meal at Toppa and relax on the terrace with a cocktail overlooking the Helsinki skyline.
Day 2
Start your day with a blitz of culture at the Helsinki Art Museum and Ateneum Art Museum.
Catch a tram out to Tueratastamo for lunch and take the tour around Helsinki Distillery.
Walk off the midday drinks by exploring Kallio district and its flea markets, vintage shops and independent boutiques.
Treat yourself to a 7-course taster menu at Wellamo sampling all the seasonal delicacies of Scandinavia.
Matt Dennis was a guest of Matka Travel Fair. He stayed at Sono Sokos Hotels Pier 4 and flew with Finn Air from Heathrow. One-way fares start from £215.
