When you hear the word Florida, of what do you think?
Maybe it’s Miami and all that comes with it: neon-lit strips, thumping music, and yawning stretches of golden sand beach.
Perhaps it’s Key West, known for historic sites and stunning sunsets, or Walt Disney World Resort – arguably the world’s most famous theme park.
One place you probably wouldn’t think of is Fort Myers. Southwest of Florida’s Gulf Coast, this coastal city between Naples and Sarasota punches above its weight with beaches, grub and history. I discovered the best it has to offer on a five day visit last summer.
Bars and boat rides
Southern Florida is alive with exotic wildlife, from alligators and river otters to racoons and the elusive black bear.
With a guise to spotting some of these creatures, we took a Captiva Cruises boat ride down to Cabbage Key, a 100-acre island home to a family-run inn, marina and Fort Myers famous ‘bar with all the money on the walls’.
The name is no exaggeration. Inside the Cabbage Key Inn & Restaurant, dollar bills cover every inch of the walls and ceiling. Each is signed with the name of whoever owned the note and the date they dined at the restaurant.
The owner told us the tradition started when a fisherman left his autographed bill taped to the wall over 60 years ago, ensuring a cold beer next time he stopped by.
Now, the George Washington wallpaper is worth an estimated $70,000.
The House Made Smoked Mahi Fish Dip I ordered was top tier, and don’t get me started on the key lime pie. But I was more excited about hanging my own dollar so that I, too, could feel a part of something years in the making.
Another top rated restaurant we didn’t have time to visit is The Veranda, where bow-tied staff serve up a slice of ‘Old Florida’. I’m told the shrimp cocktail is just about as juicy as one can get
On our journey back from the restaurant, a family of adorable bottlenose dolphins provided us with free entertainment.
If this feels a little too up close and personal, you can see other animals including one of Florida’s million or so alligators from a safer distance on a guided tram tour at the Ding Darling nature reserve, or on the Six Mile Cypress nature trail that winds around Gator Lake.
Big business brewing
After working up a thirst on the water, there was only one antidote: the Floridian nectar that is craft beer.
They can’t get enough of it. Lager, ale, hybrid, you name it, Fort Myers is flooded with indy breweries, each with a distinct twist.
Florida has a reputation for being America’s retirement state, but Fort Myers attracts lively Gen Zers from across the country, eager to soak up its quirky bar scene and year-round summer.
Part boozer part diner, Voodoo Brewing Co offers more than just your usual Stella.
I’m talking ‘Summertime Living’s Easy,’ ‘Where Our Secrets Go’ and ‘Voodoo Love Child,’ but after tucking into the ‘Chicky Chicky Bang Bang’ burger, I opted for an ‘Empty Calories’ beer – a 4.7% ABV American light lager than went down as smooth as a glass of water.
Point Ybel, the brewing company named after the 98ft Sanibel Lighthouse best known as Fort Myers’ mechanical mascot, is another unmissable stop for a bar hop.
Unlike other breweries, Point Ybel treats the creation of beer more like a science; everything on the premises is created in-house. Like Voodoo, Point Ybel bless their beer with the wackiest names; ‘Sanibel Light,’ ‘Johnny Jump Up’ and, my favourite, ‘You Only Yolo Once.’
Point Ybel was established in 2013, and they’re special because they live by the motto, ‘we never serve a beer we wouldn’t drink’. I’m not that much of a beer drinker in the UK, but their flagship ‘Snook Bite’ pint had me rethinking every time I’ve ever turned one down.
Suitably refreshed, it was straight to Fort Myers beach, regularly voted as one of the top 10 beaches in the US.
Another must-visit seaside stop is Margaritaville, a kitschy beach resort that sells tacos and deliciously affordable cocktails.
A devastating loss
Located on the East end of Sanibel island, the Sanibel Lighthouse was first lit on August 20, 1884, and has a central spiral staircase beginning about 10 feet above the ground.
Not only is the lighthouse a popular tourist attraction, it’s also a structure that’s history is cemented into the hearts of all Fort Myers residents, and for good reason too.
On September 28, 2022, a unique and challenging storm swept through from the Carribean up to North Carolina. Fort Myers was devastated, with ‘Hurricane Ian’ causing over $112 billion in damage and claiming more than 150 lives, making it one of the worst hurricanes in Florida’s history.
During my visit, just shy of two years later, Fort Myers has regained stability, but the scars of trauma remain.
President and CEO of the Sanibel and Captiva Chamber of Commerce, John Lai, choked on his words as he recounted his experience, and how the fear of losing the iconic lighthouse consumed him.
Miraculously, it only lost one leg, a giant metal rod that was retrieved from sea and attached with scaffolding, like a bandage to a knee.
After the hurricane, volunteers, government agencies, and local businesses worked tirelessly to clear debris, rebuild it’s infrastructure, and restore power.
The lighthouse’s recovery showcased the strength and unity of southwest Florida in the face of adversity. Today, it stands at the edge of the beach, covered in protection and awaiting refurbishment, still as proud as it was before.
I couldn’t help but think that nature is healing.
Getting to Fort Myers
The closest airports are Tampa, which is a two-hour drive, and Miami, which is two hours and 20 minutes.
Plenty of airlines run direct routes from London to Miami, including British Airways, Air Canada and Air France.
From quiet beaches to vibrant breweries, every moment in Fort Myers felt like a treasure.
This coastal town is the perfect blend of adventure and relaxation, a balance so many destinations find impossible to strike.
Will I be returning to Fort Myers in the future? Perhaps.
Will I be recommending this place to every friend and colleague for years to come? It goes without saying.
Zac Haniff was a guest of Fort Myers Tourism Board and British Airways.
