The quirky seaside suburb in Ireland’s capital – where locals go to escape the city

IT’S that time of year when those of us with an ounce of Gaelic heritage flock across the Irish Sea to knock back pints of the black stuff in celebration of St Patrick.

Once you’ve completed the Dublin Bingo card of Temple Bar, Grafton Street and The Guinness Storehouse, why not hop on the DART train to Howth, Dublin’s quirky seaside suburb.

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The view of Baily Lighthouse is idyllic[/caption]

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The seafront’s houses add to the charm of the twon[/caption]

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Howth harbour has a tropical vibe[/caption]

A 25-minute ride from the city centre, Howth is a popular weekend escape for Dubliners, who come to fill their lungs with salty sea air and their bellies with chowder.

Stepping off the DART, I’m met by the squall of seagulls, the smell of fish and chips and the sight of my friend, broadcaster, author and Howth local, Michelle Jackson.

I’ve been promising to visit her for a decade now, and seeing the pretty harbour with its colourful fishing boats, sandy beaches and rugged cliffs strewn with wildflowers, I’m furious it’s taken me so long.

Part of the Dublin Coastal Trail, we start the Cliff Path Loop, a four-mile walking route which winds up and over the head (Howth means head in Norse) and with views of the Baily Light-house, Dublin Bay and Ireland’s Eye, an uninhabited island just offshore.

On a clear day you can spot dolphins and the Welsh mountains in the distance.

We dip down into Balscadden Bay Beach, a sandy bay with clear waters where cold-water fanatics swim throughout the year.

Howth is one of the most sought-after suburbs of Dublin and I’m following in the footsteps of the greats.

The Irish poet WB Yeats lived in Balscadden House in 1880. King George IV’s footprints are imprinted in stone on Howth’s West Pier to commemorate him first setting foot on Irish soil in August 1821 — he had remarkably tiny feet.

And, of course, U2. Bono lived here in the 1980s and drummer Larry Mullen still does.

We swing by Howth Castle, where the legend of Grace O’Malley, the original Pirate Queen, is cemented in Howth history.

Pirate Queen legend

In 1576, O’Malley visited Howth Castle, home of Lord Howth, only to be turned away as the family was at dinner.

Raging with fury, she abducted his son and heir and only returned him on the promise that the gates to Howth Castle were never closed and a place is laid out on the dinner table for an unexpected guest.

This tradition is still upheld today.

In the castle grounds is a 3,000-year-old dolmen tomb called Aideen’s Grave, which Irish legend says was the grief-stricken daughter of Aengus, ruler of Howth.

We nip into Howth Market for a coffee and find an eclectic rabble of artisan food stands, hand-made craft stalls and quirky souvenir shops.

Seafood is king in this fishing village, and for lunch we have a choice of Crabby Jo’s, Octopussy’s Seafood Tapas and the King Sitric, where the chowder is fit for royalty.

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Seafood is king in Howth and the King Sitric offers classics like fish and chips but is known for the chowder[/caption]

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Octopussy’s Seafood Tapas offers fresh and simple delights from the ocean[/caption]

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U2’s Bono, second right, and Larry Mullen, left, have both lived in the town of Howth[/caption]

If I had more time, I would visit Ye Olde Hurdy Gurdy Museum Of Vintage Radio, a quirky museum of communication history based in the Martello tower on the harbour.

A dream for gadget fans, the private collection of the late Pat Herbert includes early Morse equipment, rare gramophones, crystal sets and valve radios.

On our tour, Michelle bumps into a neighbour, who informs her of a local’s passing and his imminent wake.

“Ah Rasher, poor ole fella. Come on, let’s go to his wake,” she says.

So raising a pint of Guinness to Rasher in his favourite pub, The Bloody Stream, is a fitting end to my weekend in Howth.

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Aideen’s Grave is 3,000 years old[/caption]