Brazil’s ‘gateway to the Amazon’ is often overlooked — but now’s the time to visit

When you think of Brazil, you picture colourful carnival goers, Christ the Redeemer towering over tourists, and sunbathers on Copacabana Beach.

I would bet that Belém, a city in the northwest of the country, doesn’t spring to mind.

It is perhaps a slightly more niche destination; a stop for river cruises heading into the Amazon rainforest, or for backpackers travelling around every corner of Brazil.

Known as the ‘gateway to the Amazon’ due to its location on the mouth of the Pará River, part of the Amazon River system, Belém is a large access point from which to enter the mighty forest.

It’s for this reason that it was chosen as the host city for COP30, as it ‘provides the world with a unique platform to discuss climate solutions’.

In November, leaders – and even British royalty – will descend on the city, and preparations are well underway, including the construction of a brand new city park, the size of 70 football pitches.

I headed to Belém last autumn to watch Brazilian DJ and producer, Alok, perform in a free-to-enter concert to launch the COP30 countdown and discover all this lesser-known city has to offer.

The Amazon gateway

Belém is a city of contrasts. I drove from the airport, in the developing outskirts, where a new arena is being built for COP30, to my hotel, the Radisson Hotel Maiorana, in the city centre.

It feels like any other bustling metropolis, and I’ll admit, I was a little underwhelmed.

That is, until I boarded a riverboat and headed into the Amazon delta.

There are plenty of tours that will take you into the rainforest, from hours spent on a boat floating along the river to full days of explorative journeys deeper into the Amazon.

At first, the place seems eerily silent as you glide along the river, but then, you tune into the subtle sounds of distant animals, and it begins to sink in that you’re in a place like no other.

A word of warning: do not forget your bug spray here; the mosquitos are relentless and once you’re in the forest, everything is open to the elements. There is no hiding inside.

We head to Combu Island, to a coca farm owned by Dona Nena. The self-taught businesswoman was born here, and her family have been producing artisan chocolates for generations.

Nena jokes that the forest is her ‘garden’, and for £10, she’ll guide you through the land, revealing how she learnt the art of chocolate-making from her mother, peeling the cocoa by hand until 2018, when technology thankfully took over.

The chocolate produced by Filha do Combu is something else: I’ll be thinking about the Brigadeiro – a truffle-like treat – forever.

The next day, we revisited the farm, and this time we were joined by Célia Xakriabá and Mapu Huni Kuin, who are both Indigenous tribe leaders.

Together, they performed a welcoming ceremony in front of a 200-year-old Kapok tree – a sacred tree for many Amazonian tribes.

They grow taller than any other in the forest and, as such, are believed to connect the ancestral and living worlds.

Phones were turned off as I stood in the roots of this awe-inspiring tree and listened to Célia’s rhythmic chanting. I was instructed to place my hands on the roots and make a wish: those who are pure of heart will have their desires granted.

Later, we dined on the quiet Combu Island, with bustling Belém visible across the river in the distance.

It was then that the heavens finally opened, and I can honestly say I have never experienced rain like it. It’s called a ‘rainforest’ for a reason.

We hid under the canvas cover and sipped coffee while watching the deluge, and half an hour later, the sun was shining again.

As night fell, light pollution was nonexistent. As I looked at the stars, the unfamiliar constellations reminding me how far I had travelled, it really brought home how important this place is, and how the world must strive to protect it.

Amazonian cuisine

As well as Dona Nena’s delicious chocolates, there are plenty of delicacies to try in Belém.

I doubt you’ll visit the city without sampling jambu, sometimes known as the toothache plant, a native herb that chefs in the region seem to include in almost every dish.

The unassuming leaf, which looks similar to spinach, but with a blossoming yellow flower, has an unusual side effect: numbness. Whether it’s a breadstick or a main meal, jambu is everywhere — so prepare to have a tingling tongue at all times.

I enjoyed the added kick to my meals but some of my unsuspecting friends who tried my souvenir jambu breadsticks haven’t been so keen.

While southern Brazil is known for its meat, Pará’s placement on the Amazon River delta means fresh seafood is abundant, and fresh fruit is also a must: tucumã, a sweet-tasting fruit often compared to mango, and taperebá, similar to passionfruit, were both delicious.

But the star of the show is açaí. The state of Pará produces around 90% of Brazil’s açaí, but it’s different to the fruit you’ll find in bowls at health food cafes in the UK. Here, it’s unsweetened and yoghurt and oats are nowhere to be seen, with locals opting for cassava flour or tapioca accompaniments instead.

Fresh açaí has a much earthier taste, with flavour notes more similar to matcha or tea. It’s still well worth a try, especially if you don’t have a sweet tooth.

The region’s biggest export is also at risk. A local guide explains that as the Amazon continues its fight for survival, açaí – and its profits – could become a distant memory.

Eating out in Belém is cheap, especially with the generous conversion from Brazilian Real to pounds, meaning an evening meal is unlikely to cost more than £30 per person.

I enjoyed a particularly spectacular meal at the Casa do Saulo Onze Janelas, with fish bigger than your face cooked to perfection. The tambaqui de banda is a must-have here – a freshwater fish roasted with plantain.

Even at the higher end of the price range, dishes were still budget-friendly at around £20 for a sharing plate for two.

More to see in Belém

The Amazon isn’t the only reason to visit Belém. For R$2 – which is less than 50p – you can visit Mangal das Garcas, a park home to hundreds of bird species with panoramic views of the city.

The bird sanctuary is stunning, with parrots, flamingos, and more. Locals tell me the spot is a favourite for peaceful lunch breaks within the bustling city.

From the viewing platform, you can notice the stark contrast between the developing skyscraper city and the natural world the Belenense are fighting to protect.

Elsewhere, the huge Ver o Peso market has everything from fresh fruit, souvenirs, jewellery and perfumes that make ‘people fall in love’, according to the enthusiastic traders. As tempting as that was, I decided to keep the fate of my love life in Hinge’s hands.

While I did eye up an Amazonian-style vase, I left having only purchased an adorable fridge magnet which looked like a tiny açaí basket.

Remember to haggle, and you can nab yourself a bargain.

Time to shine

As the host city for COP30, Belém has been granted a much-needed moment in the spotlight.

There’s so much potential here – a new modern city that merges eco-friendly developments with deep cultural traditions.

While Brazilian favourites like São Paulo and Rio might have mass appeal, Belém is a rewarding destination that’s not to be missed.

Do you have a story to share?

Get in touch by emailing [email protected].