Forget your classic city break — I spent 24 hours in the ‘Paris of the North’

Bridge of city Tromso, Norway aerial photography. Tromso is considered the northernmost city in the world with a population above 50,000.
Norway’s Arctic City is vibrant despite its extreme location (Picture: Getty Images)

Perched over 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle, you’d be forgiven for thinking of Tromsø as snowy, inhospitable, and precious little else.

But don’t be fooled by its extreme location — Metro‘s Alice Murphy spent a day in the largest city in northern Norway and found plenty to see beyond the Northern Lights.

Surrounded by polar ocean, Tromsø was an important Viking site dating back to the 9th century. Today, its colourful timber houses, kitschy cafes and imposing triangular cathedral are just some of the reasons it’s known as the ‘Paris of the North’.

Over the past decade, Tromsø has become a thriving tourist destination.

The population of this Arctic city has ballooned since the opening of Tromsø University in 1972, and it’s now a popular stop on the Norwegian cruise route, with ships like the Hurtigruten bringing life to the icy streets.

As part of his role as Hurtirgruten’s Head of Communications, Johnny Stanley-Brown has spent a lot of time in the ‘Jewel of the North’, and he tells Metro there’s something truly unique to experience there.

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Arctic Cathedral in Tromso, Norway in winter. Tromsdalen Church with unusual modernist architecture and glass facade in snowy landscape.
Tromsø’s Arctic Cathedral is not your typical church (Picture: Getty Images)

‘I’ve never been anywhere quite like Tromsø,’ says Johnny. ‘It has this incredible blend of Arctic wilderness and small-city charm. I’m already looking forward to my next visit, hopefully this summer.’

Yet, even with direct flights from London, this Nordic outpost remains under the radar for most British tourists.

From troll museums to invigorating saunas, Tromsø is a quirky destination that punches above its weight — and there’s still time to see it before it gets crowded.

Things to do in Tromsø

Ride the Fjellheisen

For the most beautiful view in Tromsø, take a ride on the city’s cable car — just make sure to check your weather app in advance, as it’s often closed due to strong winds.

Rising 421 metres above sea level, the gondola station opens onto hiking trails and a café where you can soak in a panorama of the city below.

The harbour. Tromso or Tromsoe during winter in the northern part of Norway. Europe. Scandinavia. Norway. March. (Photo by: Martin Zwick/REDA/Universal Images Group via Getty Images)
Tromsø is surrounded by spectacular scenery (Picture: Universal Images Group Editorial)

Drink at the ‘world’s northernmost brewery’

After the chill of the polar breeze, nothing tastes better than a Norwegian beer at Olhallen Macks, otherwise known as Tromsø’s oldest pub and the most northerly brewery in the world.

The atmosphere is lively and touristy, and I’m told many a cruiser has been left behind after lingering for one too many pints.

I’m also told Olhallen has the most beer taps of any pub in Europe, though I think a Munich beer hall or two might query that claim.

Visit the Troll Museum

After defrosting in the brewery’s warm embrace, head for this kooky pocket-sized museum which is just a few minutes’ walk along the harbour.

Packed with fascinating tales from Norse mythology, the exhibits use augmented reality technology to bring ancient folklore to life. Entry is around £15.

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Marvel at the Arctic Cathedral

Europe has so many ornate Gothic cathedrals, they can start to blend into one. But at the foot of the Tromsø Bridge is an unmistakable modernist masterpiece you won’t confuse with the rest.

Completed in 1965, the triangular shell of the Arctic Cathedral is truly unique, though its wooden interior is a little underwhelming.

Eat a reindeer hotdog

Described by one TripAdvisor reviewer as the ‘tiniest bar in the universe’, Rakatten is an iconic piece of Tromsø history, famous for its reindeer, beef and vegan hotdogs.

Steeped in history, this adorable street stall has stood in the centre of the city for more than 100 years, and the snacks – yes, even the reindeer – are simple but delicious.

Rakatten serves up delicious reindeer hotdogs (Picture: Alice Murphy)

Chase the Northern Lights

It’s top of many a bucket list, and for the best chance of ticking off a Northern Lights show, you’ll want to visit Tromsø between November and March.

There are several ways to see the Aurora Borealis, from curated dinner cruises to guided land chases and even from the top of Tromsø’s cable car. But you need to be patient.

It’s common to spend five, six and seven nights star gazing before you spot your first glimpse of the dancing green lady.

Unwind in a floating sauna

Just a short walk from Tromsø’s main thoroughfare is Pust Sauna, which floats in the harbour.

This Arctic oasis provides surprisingly affordable respite from the cold, with walk-in sessions and cold plunges for just under £9.

Each sauna captures panoramic views of the best of the city, including the Arctic Cathedral and Fjellheisen cable car.

Best time to visit Tromsø

The best time to go to Tromsø depends on what you want to see.

For the Northern Lights, your best chance is from late September to early April.

For Midnight Sun (when the sun never sets), from mid-May to July, or for Polar Night (when the sun doesn’t rise), from late November to mid-January.

Tromsø also hosts international events, such as the Tromsø International Film Festival which runs from 19-25 January 2026.

Getting there

British Airways runs direct flights from London Heathrow to Tromsø, but only during the winter months to meet demand for Polar Night and the Northern Lights. Norwegian Air also flies direct from Gatwick.

Airlines such as SAS, Lufthansa and Norwegian also run flights with stopovers in Oslo, Frankfurt and Munich.

Alternatively, you can see Tromsø as part of a cruise along the Norwegian coast, hopping off for a day tour.

Those arriving at Tromsø Airport can catch the red shuttle bus to the city centre for about £9 one way. Taxis are also available, but they’re much more expensive.

Where to stay

Best location: Clarion Hotel The Edge, which sits right on Tromsø harbour. Standard double rooms start from £106 per night.

Best hidden gem: Radisson Blu Hotel Tromsø, which has a rooftop sauna on the 10th floor free to all guests. Standard double rooms start from £95 per night.

Best value: Comfort Hotel Xpress Tromsø. Standard double rooms start from £51 per night.

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