I’ve lived in London on and off for over a decade, and I’ve never said more than a passing ‘hello’ to my neighbours.
But in Shediac, a small town in New Brunswick, Canada, I experience a sense of community for the first time in years.
I’m at the Shediac Lobster Festival, enjoying fresh seafood for a fraction of UK prices and alien levels of friendliness compared to the interactions I have on the Tube at home. Pulling a chair up to a table for 700 people leads to all sorts of life-affirming conversations. And, if you’re a lobster amateur like me, detailed instructions on how to eat them.
The Lobster Festival has just celebrated its 75th year, which means it’s been around 20 years longer than Glastonbury. Aside from my group, I didn’t notice a single international tourist, and most out-of-towners came from other parts of Canada.
It was a similar story across the region, and I soon discovered I had stumbled upon one of the few places mass tourism has yet to reach.
New Brunswick’s ‘Grand Canyon’
Research before my trip told me that New Brunswick is often referred to as Canada’s ‘drive-through’. Lonely Planet calls it the country’s ‘forgotten’ province, so it’s safe to say my expectations were low.
But once on terra firma, I discovered that this is a place that thankfully does not live up to its name. Nature lovers, behold: lush national parks, beautiful waterfalls, idyllic beaches, and charming country towns.
At Fundy Trail Provincial Park, you’ll get to experience all of these on a 30km cliffside drive. Adult entry to the park costs $12.17 (£6.85) per day.
Walking through towering pine trees at a pit stop, we emerged unexpectedly at what locals call New Brunswick’s Grand Canyon. Officially known as Walton Glen Gorge Falls, it was created by a series of volcanic eruptions but is now covered in a thick blanket of trees.
The world’s highest tides
At Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park, in the Bay of Fundy, you can witness the world’s highest tides. Reaching up to 16 metres, they have caused dramatic rock erosions which all have nicknames. Look out for the Jay Leno rock with the inimitable nose and chin.
During low tide, you can walk on the ocean floor and meander in and out of formations that wouldn’t look out of place in Star Trek. It’s best to visit early, before 10.30am if you can.
A two-day entry pass is $15.85 (£8.93) for adults, but I recommend booking one of their informative tours which are $18.23 (£10.26) per person.
We were given a comprehensive tour by our guide Joe, who swapped a career in IT for the great outdoors. The facts were jaw-dropping; the sandstone we were walking on is 350 million years old.
Where to eat and drink in New Brunswick
Two hours south of Hopewell Rocks is Saint John, a port on a volcanic peninsula that has attracted an influx of restaurateurs in recent years. The best way to get a taste of the city’s hotspots is Uncorked Tours, run by Gillian.
The Saint John Beer tour costs $89pp (£50). Crisps are my kryptonite, but never have I eaten any like at Bigtide Brewing, made to order and striking the perfect balance between crisp and fluffy.
At Magnetic Hill Winery we tried four vintages while sitting next to Saint John market, the oldest farmer’s market in Canada. The wild blueberry is a must-try.
New Brunswick is known for world-class seafood, but if you need a break from prawns and cockles, locals rave about the butter chicken at Indian restaurant Thandi. A generous portion costs $26 (£14.62).
Further inland we reach Moncton, the most populous city in New Brunswick (and also heaving with restaurants). We dined at Gahan House Hub City and stuffed our faces with giant oysters for $3.50 (£1.97) a pop, followed by seafood chowder for $19 (£14.81).
Do yourself a favour and don’t miss Tide & Boar Gastropub. Order the lobster roll, which comes with a side of your choice. At $32 (£18) it was a bargain, considering the roll was stuffed with what looked to be a whole lobster.
Canada’s ‘best destination’
Fed and watered, it was time to explore the unspoiled shores of St Andrews, a seaside resort town with an esteemed reputation.
In 2017, USA Today declared St Andrews to be Canada’s ‘best destination’, beating the likes of Niagara, Banff and Montreal.
Perhaps, what makes St Andrews so special is that it feels like a relic from a bygone era. This view is cemented when we encountered a Gen Z server in a coffee shop who had never heard of Oscar-winner Jennifer Lawrence.
One of its most popular attractions is Kingsbrae Gardens, filled with over 50,000 flowers, plants, ponds, and streams. Tickets cost $19 (£14.81) for adults.
Off the coast of the town, there’s a good chance of spotting whales in the wild. We booked the VIP Zodiac boat tour with Jolly Breeze, which costs $99.00 (£56) during peak season (July 1 – September 15). Tours are limited to 12 people.
The flotation suits looked ridiculous, something between an astronaut’s onesie and a road sweeper’s uniform. But our fashion faux pas was rewarded about 45 minutes into our voyage, when spotted our first minke whale. The species can reach up to 35 feet long.
It’s not just whales you might encounter. Not long after setting sail, we came across an island swarming with seals. Our captain pulled up at a respectful distance to watch them sunbathe. We also spotted a bald eagle perching in a tree and several porpoises, too.
Getting to New Brunswick
Air Canada offers direct return flights from London Heathrow to Moncton, costing on average around £588.
You can also travel with Air Canada from London Heathrow to Saint John, with a stopover in Montreal. Prices are around the £500-600 mark.
The other major travel hub in New Brunswick is Fredericton. You can fly from Heathrow via Montreal for a similar cost with Air Canada.
Ruth Lawes was a guest of Atlantic Canada and New Brunswick.
